To cuff or not to Cuff...that is the question!

When I work with customers on slacks or suit pants I usually get asked whether I believe a trouser cuff is still "in style" or "appropriate".  And I always say YES!  So before we get into the details, the answer is always YES...in fact it never stopped being YES.  The cuff has been around longer than any of us can remember and isn't going anywhere..at least as long as I can help it.

Standard Issue

So now let's break it down.  The cuff is that turned up layer of cloth at the bottom of your pants that resides usually on top of your shoe...unless your buying Black Fleece by Thom Browne at Brooks Brothers and want to have the Pee Wee Hermann idiotic high water look. 

A little Small in my Opinion

Anyway, here's what our Wiki Friends have to say about trouser cuffs:  The main reason for the cuffs is to add weight to the bottom of the leg, to help the drape of the trousers. Originally, however, it started as men rolling up their trousers to avoid getting mud splashed on them when roads were still unpaved.

A little large in my Opinion

So, now that most of our roads are indeed paved, I'd say we're into an aesthetic decision.  My official opinion on the subject is this:  Always cuff suit pants and all other pants except cotton khaki flat front pants, meaning those without pleats around the front waistband.  I think trousers just look better with the cuff at the bottom and does indeed help drape the trousers at a proper length.

Now another question few think about is cuff width.  Most men just say yes or no when asked whether they prefer a cuff.  The absolute industry standard is 1 1/2 inches, which in my book is ok for most men and usually what most tailors will automatically apply.  The standard at Brooks Brothers is usually 1 3/4 inches.  I happen to believe that if you are taller than 6 ft. in height, then your cuff width could stand a little extra girth up to 1 3/4 inches.  And if you're like me and just feel kinda cooky, go ahead and put a full 2 inches down there.  No...nobody is going to accuse you of overcompensating for a shortfall elsewhere just because you have a larger than normal cuff width!  In my belief, anything less than the industry standard is not appropriate.  In fact, if you look at most pre-hemmed pants at Jos A Bank or even the Brother Brooks, you'll see that they've skimped on the fabric to save money and have a 1 inch or maybe a 1 1/4 inch cuff already in place.  I don't like it!  And I suggest you do not purchase them!  Real men who care about their fashion choices purchase un-hemmed trousers for 2 reasons, one so that the tailor can prepare an inseam length specifically for the wearer and two, so that an appropriate size cuff can be prepared.

Herewith are some examples from my closet:

Kinda Cooky - 2 inches

Suit pants - 1 3/4 inches

Seersucker Suit - 1 3/4 inches

Some of you may say, "Who gives a crap about cuff width!"  Well, I do.  And so should you.  Anything worth doing is worth doing correctly!  So the next time your tailor is down on his knees making sure your trouser length is correct and he asks whether you'd like cuffs or not, go ahead and say, "YES, and by the way, I'm feeling kinda cooky today so give me a full 2 inches down there!"